Black tie is a semi-formal Western dress code for evening events, originating in British and American conventions for attire in the 19th century.

In British Englishthe dress code is often referred to synecdochically by its principal element for men and boys, the dinner suit or dinner jacket sometimes abbreviated to just a DJ.

In American Englishthe equivalent term, tuxedo or tux for short, is common.

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The dinner suit is a black, midnight blue or white two- or three-piece suitdistinguished by satin or grosgrain jacket lapels and similar stripes along the outseam of the trousers.

It is worn with a white dress shirt with standing or turndown collar and link cuffsa black bow tietypically an evening waist coat or a cummerbundand black patent leather dress shoes or court pumps.

For women, an evening gown or other fashionable evening attire may be worn.

The late 19th century saw gradual introduction of the lounge jacket without tails as a less formal and more comfortable leisure alternative to the frock coat.

Similarly, the shorter dinner jacket evolved as a less formal alternative to the dress coat out of the informal smoking jacketitself an evolvement out of the banyan.

Thus in many non-English languages, a dinner jacket is still known as the false friend “smoking”. In American Englishits synonym “tuxedo” was derived from the town of Tuxedo Park in New York Statewhere it was first introduced in following the example of Europeans.

Following the counterculture of the sblack tie has increasingly replaced white tie for more formal settings in the United States, along with cultures infuenced by American culture.

Traditional semi-formal day wear equivalent is black lounge suit. Supplementary semi-formal alternatives may be accepted for black tie: mess dress uniformreligious clothing such as cassockfolk costumes such as highland dressetc.

Dinner jacket in the context of menswear first appeared in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland around [3] and in the United States of America around Tuxedo in the context of menswear originated in the US around The term was capitalized until the s and traditionally referred only to a white jacket.

In French, Italian, Portuguese, German, Polish, Russian, Spanish, Turkish, and other European languages the style is referred to with the pseudo-anglicism smoking esmoquin.

This generic colloquialism is a false friend deriving from its similarity with the 19th century smoking jacket. In French the dress code may also be called “cravate noire,” [10] a term that is sometimes adopted directly into English.

The suit with accompanying accessories is sometimes nicknamed a monkey suit and, sincesoup and fish – a term derived from the sort of food thought to be served at black tie dinners.

In the s, the increasing popularity of outdoor activities among the middle and upper classes of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland led to a corresponding increase in the popularity of the then casual lounge suit standard suit in American English as a country alternative to the more formal day wear frock coat that was traditionally worn in town.

Men also sought a similar alternative to the formal evening tailcoat then known as a “dress coat” worn every evening.

Other accounts of the Prince’s experimentation appear around variously referring to “a garment of many colours, such as was worn by our ancestors” and “short garments coming down to the waist and made on the model of the military men’s jackets”.

The garment as we know it suit jacket with tailcoat finishes was first described around the same time and often associated with Cowesa seaside resort in southern England and centre of British yachting that was closely associated with the Prince.

It was originally intended for warm weather use but soon spread to informal or stag winter occasions. As it was simply an evening tailcoat substitute, it was worn with all the same accoutrements as the tailcoat, including the trousers.

In the following decades of the Victorian erathe style became known as a dinner jacket: a fashionable, formal alternative for the tailcoat which men of the upper classes wore every evening.

Thus it was worn with the standard accompaniments for the evening tailcoat at the time: matching trousers, white or black waistcoat, white bow tie, white detachable wing-collar formal shirt and black formal shoes.

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Lapels were often faced or edged in silk or satin in varying widths. In comparison with full dress cutaway tailcoatetiquette guides declared dinner jacket inappropriate for wear in mixed company, meaning together with ladies.

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During the Edwardian erathe practice of wearing a black waistcoat and black bow tie with a dinner jacket became the convention, establishing the basis of the current black tie and white tie dress codes.

The dinner jacket was also increasingly accepted at less formal evening occasions such as warm-weather gatherings or intimate dinners with friends.

After the World War Ithe dinner jacket became established as a semi-formal evening wear, while the evening tailcoat was limited to the most formal or ceremonial occasions.

During this interwar period, double-breasted jackets, turndown-collar shirts and cummerbunds became popular for black tie evenings as white jackets where experimented with in warm weather.

In the decades following the World War IIblack tie became special occasion attire rather than standard evening wear. In the s, some experimented with coloured and patterned jackets, cummerbunds and bow ties.

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The s and s saw the colour palette move from muted to bright day-glow and pastel, as well as ruffled-placket shirts as lapels got wider and piping was revived.

Some insist the 21st century has seen increased variation and a relaxation of previous strict standards; midnight blue once again became popular and lapel facings were sometimes reduced to wide edging.

The earliest references to a dress coat substitute in America are from the summer and fall of and, like the British references from this time, vary between waist-length mess-jacket style and the conventional suit jacket style.

A son of one of the community’s founders, Griswold Lorillard, and his friends were widely reported in society columns for showing up at the club’s first Autumn Ball in October wearing “a tailless dress coat”.

An essay in the Tuxedo Park archives [29] attributes the jacket’s importation to America to resident James Brown Potter, a merchant banker who had worked in London for Brown Brothers.

However this claim for Potter cannot be verified through independent sources. This led the American establishment to reject it out of hand.

It was only by that polite society accepted its role solely as a summer and informal evening substitute, at which point it became very popular.

The earliest dinner jackets were of the same black material as the dress coat with one, two or no buttons and a shawl collar faced in satin or ribbed silk.

By the turn of the twentieth century the peaked lapel was equally popular and the one-button model had become standard. When trousers were sold with the jacket they were of the same material.

Edwardian dandies often opted for Oxford grey or a very dark blue for their evening wear. By World War Ithe grey option had fallen out of favour but the ” midnight blue ” alternative became increasingly popular and rivalled black by the mid s.

Notch lapels, imported from the ordinary business suit, were a brief vogue in the s. At this time double-breasted jackets and white jackets became popular for wear in hot weather.

Colour, texture and pattern became increasingly popular in warm-weather jackets in the s. Notch lapels were once again a fad.

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These trends have continued into the early 21st century, and midnight blue is now once again a popular alternative. The dinner suits’s accompaniments have also evolved over time.

The most traditional interpretations of these elements — dress shirtlow cut waistcoat in the “V” or “U” shapeblack bow tieoxford dress shoes — are incorporated in the black tie dress code.

Unlike white tiewhich is very strictly regulated, black tie ensembles can display more variation. The original and most formal model of dinner jacket is the single-breasted model.

The typical black tie jacket is single-breasted with one button only, with jetted besom pockets and is of black or midnight blue; usually of wool or a wool— mohairor wool- polyester blend, although other materials, especially silk, are seen.

Although other materials are used, the most appropriate and traditional for the dinner jacket are wool barathea or superfine herringbone. Dinner jackets were commonly ventless before World War I, but today come ventless, with side ventsor with center vents.

The ventless style is considered more formal, while the centre vent is the least formal. The lapels traditionally pointed and shawl are usually faced with silk in either a grosgrain or a satin weave, but can also be silk barathea.

A notched lapel is not always considered to be appropriate for a dinner jacket. Some higher-end single-breasted jackets, both new and vintage, tend to be fastened with a link front closure which is visually similar to a cufflink ; this method of closure is still common in the United Kingdom.

The double-besomed jetted slit hip pocket is the only style understated enough to complement the dinner jacket. Flap pockets are not considered appropriate for formal attire’s refined minimalism due to their busier and bulkier design and are simply an attempt by dinner jacket manufacturers to save money by using standard suit patterns although sometimes they will trim the edges of a flap pocket so that the flap can be tucked in or removed if desired.

Emily Posta resident of Tuxedo Park, New York, stated in that “[Tuxedos] can have lapels or be shawl -shaped, in either case they are to have facings of silksatin or grosgrain.

White dinner jackets are often worn in warm climates. They are ivory in color rather than pure white, and have self-faced lapels i. They are generally worn with the same types of shirts and accessories as black dinner jackets, though the turndown collar and cummerbund preferred to the wing collar or waistcoat.

Similarly, the shawl lapel is more common in white dinner jackets.

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In the United Kingdom, the 20th-century etiquette was that white dinner jackets are never worn, even on the hottest day of summer, but are reserved for wear abroad.

In tropical climates, such as in Imperial Burma, desert fawn was historically used as the less formal color.

At one time, the civilian mess jacket was also an option in warmer climates. It is generally considered inappropriate for a man to remove his jacket during a formal social event, but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the ranking man of the royal familythe guest of honour may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket.

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In anticipated hot weather, Red Sea rig is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain expatriate communities.

Traditionally, the only neck wear appropriate is the black bow tie that is a self-tie and should always match the lapel facing of the dinner jacket and braiding of the trouser seams.

The bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knotwhich is also called the bow knot for that reason.

Black tie trousers traditionally have no turn-ups cuffs in US English or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single braid of silk or a material that matches or complements the lapel facing.

Traditionally, braces suspenders in US Englishhidden by the waistcoatare used to support the trousers. Belts should not ever be worn with black tie trousers.

Evening trousers can be flat-fronted or pleated today; pleats first coming into fashion in the s. While flat-fronted trousers are more fashionable at present, pleated trousers may be considered more comfortable by men who have wider hips and a narrow waist.

A waist covering should generally be worn as part of a black tie ensemble.

The original and most formal model of dinner jacket is the single-breasted model. The earliest references to a dress coat substitute in America are from the summer and fall of and, like the British references from this time, vary between waist-length mess-jacket style and the conventional suit jacket style. Shape black halterneck lace tie back bralet coat Berkeley: University of California Press. Supplementary alternatives.

Either a low cut waistcoat or cummerbund may be worn, but never both at the same time. Although the English authority Debrett’s consider that wearing a waistcoat is smart, they no longer consider either waist covering to be essential.

In the s, the increasing popularity of outdoor activities among the middle and upper classes of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland led to a corresponding increase in the popularity of the then casual lounge suit standard suit in American English as a country alternative to the more formal day wear frock coat that was traditionally worn in town. Sexy Dresses for Women, Mini Club Dresses different sizes Generally considered too informal for black tie are shoes with open lacing, such as the Derby shoe bluchers in American English.

A low cut waistcoat should be worn when wearing a single-breasted coat. Waistcoasts come in the ‘V’ or rarer ‘U’ shape, in backless or fully backed versions, double or single breastedwith or without lapels.

Single breasted styles typically have three buttons, and double breasted ones three or four rows.

Before World War II, while black tie was still gaining acceptance, men would wear a white waistcoat, along with other details now associated primarily with white tiesuch as stiff fronted shirts.

However, this style, though increasingly viewed as an affectation, is still acceptable in the United States.

The waistcoat should be made from either the same fabric as the dinner jacket traditional or the same silk as the jacket’s lapels popular.

When a waistcoat has lapels, they should be faced in the same silk as those of the jacket; in this case it is considered more refined if the body is made from the same fabric as the jacket.

The buttons may be self-faced or covered in the same silk as the lapels. Vintage waistcoats were sometimes closed with studs made from onyx or mother of pearlwhich were often surrounded by a setting of silver or gold.

A waistcoat is never worn with a double breasted jacket. Since this style of jacket is never unbuttoned, the waist of the trousers is never exposed, and therefore does not need to be covered, [51] though before World War II an edge of waistcoat was often shown between the jacket and shirt.